Most of us have been stuck at home in the middle of the enduring coronavirus pandemic. I don't know how I have managed to stay @one place for this long during this complete lockdown:(. Every day I was looking up news if things are easing off for travelers like me. So as soon as Govt announced some leniency in travel policies in a few states I packed my bags for Uttarakhand. I’ve spent a large part of my life traveling and thinking and thinking about traveling. Along the way, I cobbled together my own “philosophy of travel.” Go solo, do no harm, see as much as possible...blah blah.. It's a good philosophy, I think, one that enabled me to travel ethically while still enjoying myself.
Locked down for the past few months, had given me plenty of time to think—about past travels, naturally, but also future journeys. What will they look like? I guess we got to live with this new normal until we get some solution.
Some quick checks for people who are planning to travel in the next few weeks -
If you are coming from other states than Uttarakhand - pls do carry a negative COVID report with you, this will be required at the hotel where you are staying if at a few checkpoints.
You need e-pass and Arogya Setu app both are required to enter UK if coming in a flight, make sure to have it with you in advance.
Do get fully vaccinated so that both the above two will be taken care of.
Day 1 - Arrival to my hotel @Rishikesh
So finally I left my home early this month to catch a flight for Dehradun, a city in the foothills of the Himalayas. I booked myself a prepaid taxi for my hotel from the airport, after finishing some formalities, I just rushed out from the port to catch my car. The weather was hot and humid which definitely I wasn't really expecting, but I guess this was the build-up for what I experienced after half an hour.
I heard the rain thrumming on the roof of my car within no time, it seemed to whoosh as the heavens opened. What a sight it was. Soon I reached my hotel in Rishikesh (the birthplace of yoga where yogis have spent their entire lives discovering and sharing their knowledge with the world), where I was staying overnight - a boutique Hotel Ganga Kinare -This sweet little hotel little far off from the city hustle-bustle, a quaint and quieter place though close enough to walk to the areas which may excite people like me. A perfect space to find yourself by loosing in the calmness of the place.
River Ganges flows just beside the hotel and the adjacent road called “Asthapath” which leads you to 'Triveni Ghat' where you can experience the very famous 'Ganga Aarti' as well– a grand celebration of thanking river Ganga for being perennial and blessing the city to flourish.
I stepped out of my hotel in the rain since I couldn't resist the view from the hotel room, Soundtracked by the deafening thud of raindrops pelting a rusty iron roof where I stood for sometime, there was something soul-stirring about watching crackles of lightning illuminate the Outback sky. It was one of those rare travel experiences you feel every cell of your body. After an hour or so, I reached Triveni Ghat to participate in the Aarti.
Just for people who has not seen this Aarti ever, this Aarti is performed by 7-8 priests so the following necessary arrangements are made before the start of this pooja which goes as:
All the priests wear the same color clothes – a dhoti, a kurta bonded with a towel. These priests are actually the students of Vedas and Upanishads who are headed by the senior priests of the Gangotri Seva-Samiti.
The platforms are decorated for the priests where they stand and perform the rituals.
An idol of Goddess Ganga is kept in the middle of these platforms adorned with flowers.
A multi-tiered lamp filled with oil is placed on every platform to be used by priests.
Other important items of Aarti like incense sticks, a conch shell, and a big and heavy brass lamp with a snake hood are placed at every platform.
People who have come to behold this site are either seated on the ghats or in the boats(since it was raining when I reached people were seated on the ghats only with proper social distancing) who have come around the place of Aarti at the bank of the river.
At sharp 7:00 pm( winter and summer timings are different so make sure you check online before plan your trip), the aarti begins. They take the lighting lamps in their hands and amidst the loud chanting of mantra oozing out of the speakers they start their offerings to mother Ganges. The use of conch shells is made well in between the mantras and aarti. In a rhythmic harmony, the incense sticks are lighted up, Camphor is burnt along with the multi-tiered brass lamps. As the ritual continues for approx. 45 mins. The priests performed these offerings by burning on to every direction in a circular motion. The devotees join the ceremony by clapping aloud and chanting mantras in the praise of Mother Ganges. After the final Aarti, the celebrations came to an end and the entire environment becomes silent, pious, and sacred, immersed in the divinity that mother Ganges has to offer. This was an experience of a lifetime and I suggest whoever plans to go near the Ghats of Ganges do not miss this.
Around 8ish I reached back my hotel, packed my stuff for the next day. Though this was my short visit to the town, however, it's not my first visit. I came here a lot of times in the past but every time I experience something magical. I actually can now imagine, why so many foreigners make a beeline for this town. It showcases an India that is different from the one that most of you have seen. Perhaps this year I have to visit most of the towns on the banks of Ganga. They seem a lot more interesting to me now, earlier I always used to think, its just crowded, dirty, religious cities best to be avoided, however, a brush with Rishikesh and I am compelled to make a journey of these cities! From Rishikesh to Haridwar to Allahabad to Benaras all these places are now on my list!
I ended my day with deep gratitude towards the Holy mother earth. I dedicate this new era to mothers around the world, and also to the mother of all mothers -- Mother Earth. I was going through the mirage of thoughts thinking how materialistic we have become but I guess being a born optimist I know this dust too will settle soon. Actually, It is up to us to keep building bridges to bring the world closer together, and not destroy them to divide us further apart. We can pave new roads towards peace simply by understanding other cultures. This can be achieved through traveling, learning other languages, and interacting with others from outside our borders. Only then will one truly discover how we are more alike than different. If you judge a man, judge only his heart. And if you should do so, make sure you use the truth in your conscience when weighing one's character. Do not measure anybody strictly based on the bad you see in them and ignore all the good.” I guess if someone reading this understand what I really mean.
Day 2 - Rishikesh to Auli
The next day I got up early to leave for Auli this was my base for the next few days. This journey was rough and much longer than I expected, due to construction work all throughout the journey, there are a lot of diversions are made which will take longer for you to reach your last stop...on the way to camps I had to pick Jagat as well - My friend trek lead from @gio team - Ever-smiling, lean chap, all bones, and wiriness, who does not carry an ounce of superfluous flesh and has one of the gentle countenances... On this whole journey of the next few days, we exchanged notes on life/people/spirituality, I finally realized it doesn't matter which backgrounds we really come from human connections are formed only on the basis of mutual mental wavelength.
Finally around 7:30ish we managed to reach our destination - Himalayan eco-lodge @Auli. The place has a beautiful entrance with an array of flowers...after the terrible road journey never thought this I will be welcomed by the view of this sight. I was received by the hotel manager @climber_ashish_bhatt (ever-smiling face)...at the entrance of the lodge, who served me hot tea which felt so rejuvenating... Loved the way I felt every bit here from food, rooms which were spacious and kept well with hot running water for bathing..(don't think u need more than that)... The entire staff was so warm and welcoming...
I was just looking for peace and I guess with the view like this I forgot all my tiredness...The clean and crisp air went very well with the theme of this place. The sit-out area is so well kept. This was indeed a great place to unwind if you are looking for homelike services.
Day 3 - Auli - Ghangharia
During the night I packed stuff for the trek and left the remaining at the lodge to be collected later after the trek. The next day after an hour-long drive from Auli we reached Govindghat which leads to the trek to Valley + Hemkumd. Private cabs are not allowed from Govindghat to Pulna, so we took a small hitch from here until the last spot of car parking in local Sumo cab. From Pulna to Ghangharia is around 11 km gradual ascent, I started the trek with a fresh and clear mind. On the way up, luckily I hardly saw any other trekker this time, thanks to COVID, I guess route was clean and peaceful for a change since I know during peak season time this is one of the busiest treks in this region.
While we were walking through the forest area, we came across a number of waterfalls and beautiful greenscapes that left us amazed. White waterfalls against the mountain are a delight to watch and trekking along the Pushpawati river is a whole new experience. In a state of awe, we were trying to comprehend the mesmerizing beauty that was right in front of us. The thought of capturing that hypnotizing moment suddenly slipped into my mind.
We were walking at a decent speed had enough time in our hands so stopped in between for food @Bhyundar Gurdwara langar (it was one of the best I had in the longest time)/Took few pictures for memory and for meditation. Around 4:30ish we reached Ghangharia which was my base for the Valley of Flowers and Hemkund Sahib trek. I stayed @lodge Devlok for the next three days. Its a basic hotel but provide clean sheets/hot water for bathing/homecooked food. Don't think you need anything more than that on treks:-)
Day 4 - Ghangharia to Hemkund Sahib
The next day we started early for Hemkund Sahib - While trekking through numerous waterfalls, dense forests, and astounding views of the Himalayas, we were unaware of the surprise that was awaiting us! The view of Sri Hemkund Sahib was enough to leave us in a state of spiritual ecstasy. The picturesque natural settings of the place replenished our soul and relieved us from all our worldly tensions.
Being an important pilgrimage site, Sri Hemkund Sahib is nestled amid the Himalayan ranges. Lying in the backdrop of snow-clad mountains, this holy place offers peace and tranquility away from the din and noise of the city. Adorned with beautiful and exquisite tapestry, the walls of Hemkund Sahib have pictures of various Sikh gurus who have inspired humankind with their morals and principles.
Hemkund Sahib is not only a site of religious relevance, it also stands as a testimony to the sacrifice of those people in history who have fought for the welfare of the society.
Hemkund Sahib was one of the highlights of this trek, though I have traveled in this region couple of times earlier never got chance to visit here until now.
I was just thanking God who gave me an opportunity to see this heavenly place. Even when every ounce of my energy drained up, I had this strange peace within me that I can't explain in words..it served as a site that refreshed my mind and nourished me within a fraction of seconds. The Seva Samiti guys told us that it is believed that Hemkund Sahib is home to seven snow peaks where Guru Gobind Singh meditated in his previous birth. The religious importance and spiritual joy attracted a myriad of devotees every year. I really wanted to take a dip into the holy water but unfortunately was closed due to COVID!
Few tips for first-timers -
Ghangaria to Hemkund Sahib: Distance 6.5 km one side, porters and ponies are available - This is quite a steep climb, so all those who are into trekking opt for a pony incase you feel unfit to walk uphill.
Helicopter Ride - This is, of course, the fastest option. Just a few minutes and the 10 km will be covered. However, this advantage comes with many ifs and buts. Firstly, weather conditions have to be favorable for helicopters to operate. Secondly, there is no pre-booking option, and the service is rendered on a first come first serve basis. And usually, there is too much crowd and waiting lines that you have to decide what mode you prefer to take. Though currently, these rides are not operating. but FYI, Helicopter service ranges between INR 3000- INR 3500 between Govindghat and Ghangaria only.
Please do respect the sanctity of this place and protect the environment...
The trek is difficult and steep, altitude approximately 4400m ASL, almost 40-50 degree incline throughout, you will definitely feel exhausted and out of breath. Make sure you hydrate yourself enough throughout the journey. Although the path is of flat slabs, try to start as early as possible in the morning so that you can spend more time basking in the glory of nature.
Do carry medicines for altitude sickness incase feel nauseating.
Do carry day food packs if traveling in this period since all the tea/maggie stalls are temporarily shut. you will only get hot tea and prasad at the langer which is very sumptuous and very much required.
The best time to visit is in July/August to see Brahma Kamal which is only seen in Alpine altitudes >14000ft. Hemkund is 15200ft above sea level. Also, the hill lock is not to be traversed near the Gurudwara as it has been reserved by the forest department, these flowers are not to be plucked( Since there is this belief it doesn't grow at the same place if being plucked)
Please make sure you have your footwear removed and then wander off in the area. A pond is a holy place where people take a dip, please don't come with your footwear near this site. This is not allowed and should be avoided.
Day 5 : Ghangharia to Valley of Flowers
Ghangaria to Valley of flowers is an easy trek as once you reach the official starting point of the valley of flowers it almost at the same level for the next 3-4 kilometers. The ticket counter at Ghangharia for Valley of Flowers opens at 7 in the morning. On the route of Ghangharia to Valley of Flowers, no vehicle or mules allowed, Therefore, you can either trek or take the service of palanquin and porters.
Once you go deeper into the national park, there are many things to relish upon. You can bask in the glory of unending meadows laden with alpine flowers. The snow-capped Ratban Parvat and Nar Parvat separating Valley from Badrinath can be clearly seen from here. On the right side of the hills stands the Birch forest. And at whichever corner you will set your eyes upon, you will realize that Valley is like a colorful carpet made from exotic flowers.
From the official starting point to the Baman Daur, a big stone in valley (which lot of people think is the last spot of the trek), is around 3.5 km but if you have the stamina you can go another 2-3 km till Joan Margaret Legge grave (She was a botanist from England who died on 4 July 1939 while collecting samples at this valley), the views from here are beautiful. Vibrating with hues of unique color codes, the sight was casting an enchanting spell. The balsam flowers flaunting light bright pink, blue and orange colors were lending a majestic appeal to the valley.
The beauty of such exotic flowers took me on a flight of imagination where the valley seemed to be a dreamlike adventure. Stretched over a wide expanse of 87.50 km, the sight of a variety of flowers, including Himalayan Slender Tape Vine, Meadow Rue, Dwarf Globe Flower, and Marsh Marigold, was invigorating our senses. Glazed by such a fantastic spectacle, I decided to pen down the experience deep in my mind. I was silent and trying to give voice to my experience which changed my perspective towards life. Life is beautiful; however, it’s up to us to design it beautifully.
Few tips for Valley trekkers -
If you start your journey around 7 am and last entry till 2pm only, you can reach the gate by noon. It takes time as whatever you see on your way to Valley is worth clicking pictures.
There is no option for accommodation in Valley of Flowers. Therefore, the return journey to Ghangharia is suggested to resume by 4 pm.
The total distance (to and fro) is around 12 km (if covering further like me).
The best season to visit here - July-Sep
Do pack waterproof jacket, since weather changes in no time here.
There are no foodstall on this route, make sure to carry daypack with you.
Entry Fee/permit - Like the entry fee for most of the other tourist places, the entry fee is separate for Indian nationals and foreigners. The entry fee for Valley of Flowers is Rs. 150 for Indian Nationals and Rs. 600 (US$ 10 Approx) for foreigners. This entry ticket is valid for 3 days for any extra day Indians need to pay Rs. 50 whereas foreigners need to pay Rs. 250. To take a professional video camera inside the valley Indians need to pay Rs. 500 and for foreigners, it is Rs. 1500 for a day.
Day 6-8 @ Auli
Finally now it was time to say goodbye to Ghangharia to head back to Auli. We started early and landed by noon in our lodge. Next few days I just chilled at the lodge roamed around the town, going through a myriad of emotions that the point of life's walk is not where or how far I move my feet but how I am moved in my heart. Trekking the Himalayas is not like walking up mountains gradually. The landscape consisted of many steep ups and downs. Going down is as demanding as going up the mountain, so no matter how tired you are, when you are in the middle of the trek about to give up, you realized that you will have to go through the ups and downs again on your way down. In the end, moving forward is your only logical choice.
In order to grow as a person, you have to move forward regardless of the speed. Going backward is impossible in life and staying still means you are spending your life doing nothing. While trekking, you can’t just stay still unless you want wild animals to devour you as it gets darker and darker every hour. Even if you move slow, you are way closer to the destination than standing still. The key is to move forward. I think the greatest paradox of this experience is that it was over with the blink of an eye, yet equally feels like a year worth of memories in these few days. Some days my whole body was sore and mind tired but I guess you won't achieve anything without real pain.
Day 9 - Auli to Rishikesh
Finally now the time had come to say goodbye to all my pahaadi friends and to the place which is still too fresh in my heart. Goodbyes for long or for short period, they are never too easy. Though I know While saying goodbye does mean accepting that a part of my life is now over, it also gave me a chance to realize just how blessed my life has been so far.
To look back and reflect on the journeys I’ve shared with some wonderful people, while being exposed to amazing and invaluable experiences I often take for granted.
It's true regardless of how long someone has been a part of our lives, whether it’s five minutes, five years, or five decades, their impact will always remain with us—even after we utter that simple, yet hard to say two-syllable word.
My stories above are but a small snapshot of the many times during my personal journey when I’ve struggled to utter the word “goodbye.” Regardless of the circumstances, saying goodbye means change, and change rarely comes along with immediate acceptance.
The finality associated with saying goodbye is challenging. Yet enabling us to achieve closure and ultimately move on with our lives.
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