The Panpatia Col trek is popularly known as the “Labyrinth of the Himalayas” due to its challenging and intricate route through high-altitude glacial terrain, moraines, and snowfields, connecting the pilgrimage towns of Badrinath and Kedarnath in Uttarakhand. This trek is known for its rugged beauty and the sense of adventure it offers to trekkers, making it a sought-after journey for those seeking a challenging and less-traveled path in the Himalayas.
The Panpatia Col trek is an exhilarating adventure that takes trekkers through some of the most remote and beautiful regions of the Garhwal Himalayas in Uttarakhand. Starting from Rishikesh and concluding in Delhi, this journey is a blend of physical challenge, stunning landscapes, and the unpredictability of the monsoon season. Here’s a detailed day-by-day account of this high-altitude trek, emphasizing the experiences and challenges faced during the rainy season.
DAY 1: Drive from Delhi to Rishikesh - Overnight Stay by the Ganges
Our adventure kicked off with an overnight stay in Rishikesh though mine started with a drive from Delhi itself till Rishikesh. The serene atmosphere of this spiritual town was a perfect prelude to our upcoming trek. We spent the evening by the Ganges, soaking in the calmness and mentally preparing ourselves for the journey ahead.
DAY 2: Rishikesh to Joshimath drive
The drive from Rishikesh to Joshimath took about 7-8 hours. The scenic drive through the winding roads and picturesque landscapes was both exhilarating and exhausting. Joshimath, a quaint town nestled in the Himalayas, provided the perfect setting for acclimatization. That same day, we noticed the weather starting to change, with ominous clouds gathering and a heavy downpour beginning by evening. A sense of apprehension set in as we considered the challenges ahead, knowing the trek could become even more difficult in such weather conditions. However, our trek lead, Ankit, reassured us, encouraging us not to worry—a common tactic used by trek leaders to calm their teams before embarking on an expedition. Despite the rain and the underlying nerves, we spent the night preparing ourselves mentally and physically for the journey that awaited us, trusting in our leader’s experience and our own resolve to face whatever lay ahead.
DAY 3: Joshimath to Hanuman Chatti drive, Trek to Uniyali Mandir Camp
After a 35 km drive from Joshimath to Hanuman Chatti, we embarked on a 5 km trek to Uniyali Mandir Camp at an altitude of 2500 meters. The initial trek was relatively easy, allowing us to ease into the journey. My tent mate and a dear friend, Anshu, who I’ve known since our days in Kashmir, was my constant companion. Our bond, strengthened by our shared experiences in Srinagar and a previous trek to the Annapurna Circuit in Nepal, added a comforting familiarity to this new adventure.
DAY 4: Uniyali Mandir Camp to Shepherd Camp
The 7 km trek to Shepherd Camp took us to an altitude of 3000 meters. The trail was steeper, but the stunning views of the surrounding mountains made the effort worthwhile. All of us kept our spirits high by sharing stories from our past adventures, which provided a welcome distraction from the physical exertion.
DAY 5: Shepherd Camp to River Camp
The trek to River Camp covered 7 km and reached an altitude of 3500 meters. The terrain became more challenging, with river crossings and rocky paths. Ankit, our trek leader, was a constant support, guiding us through the toughest sections. Mamaji, our chef cum guide, lightened the mood with his humor and ensured we had hearty meals to keep our energy up.
DAY 6: River (Snout) Camp to Moraine Glacier Camp
We trekked 7 km to Moraine Glacier Camp, ascending to an altitude of 4000 meters. The journey was arduous, with the rugged terrain of moraine fields and glacial streams testing our endurance at every step. This day proved to be particularly grueling for all of us, as the relentless boulder sections took a heavy toll on our knees. Unlike the picturesque landscapes we had encountered earlier, the scenery here was stark and barren, adding to our physical and mental fatigue. The combination of the challenging terrain and the lack of visual rewards made this day one of the most difficult of the entire trek, and we found ourselves longing for more forgiving paths and beautiful vistas.
DAY 7: Glacier Camp to Parvati Gali
The 7 km trek to Parvati Gali took us to an impressive altitude of 4500 meters. As we reached the snowline, the trek became even more challenging. Ankit’s expert guidance, coupled with the invaluable support of the porters, was crucial as we carefully navigated through the treacherous snow and ice.
Each step demanded immense effort, but the breathtaking views of the Himalayas provided the motivation we needed to keep going.
Anshu began to show signs of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). Despite her condition, her determination to continue was nothing short of inspiring. She pushed through the discomfort with incredible resilience.
The camaraderie within our group, especially with the trekkers from Bengal, was a pillar of strength. Their encouragement and support created a sense of unity and shared purpose, helping us all to persevere through the difficulties. This collective spirit transformed what could have been an overwhelming challenge into a memorable and rewarding experience.
DAY 8: Parvati Gali to Panpatia Ice Field
We trekked 7 km to the Panpatia Ice Field, ascending to a formidable altitude of 5000 meters.
This segment of the journey was particularly grueling, marked by snow-covered paths and steep ascents that tested our physical and mental endurance. Anshu continued to battle the symptoms of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), but her remarkable willpower and determination saw her through each challenging step.
Mamaji, our chef and guide, played an essential role in this leg of the trek. His dual responsibilities extended beyond just preparing meals; he was a constant source of encouragement and morale booster. Even in the harsh conditions, Mamaji ensured we had hot, nourishing meals, which were vital for maintaining our energy levels. His cheerful demeanor and unwavering support lifted our spirits during the toughest moments. The combination of breathtaking, snowy vistas and the camaraderie within our group made the arduous trek to the Panpatia Ice Field an unforgettable experience.
DAY 9: Summit Day - Panpatia Col
Summit day was the most exhilarating part of the trek. We ascended to Panpatia Col at 5300 meters and then descended to the moraine camp just before Sujal Sarovar Camp at 4200 meters, covering a total distance of 8 km. Reaching the summit was a moment of triumph, with panoramic views from the col that were truly awe-inspiring.
Descent proved to be even more challenging than the ascent as it began to pour, making the already treacherous terrain of loose boulders and snow-covered ice fields even more difficult to navigate.
As we made our way down, we witnessed an avalanche on a nearby mountain, which sent boulders rolling at high speed towards our path. It was a terrifying moment, especially since a few of our porters were heading toward the icefields. Fortunately, after the initial surge, nothing major happened, and everyone remained safe.
The day was long and filled with too many adventures, starting with the climb and culminating in a nerve-wracking descent towards the moraine campsite. We were utterly exhausted by the time we reached our destination, eagerly anticipating a well-deserved rest. This unforgettable day was marked by both breathtaking beauty and intense adversity, highlighting the incredible resilience and camaraderie within our group.
DAY 10: Moraine Campsite to Sujal Sarovar to Kachini Khal Camp
Another challenging day began with our descent to Kachini Khal Camp, covering 7 km and bringing us to an altitude of 4000 meters. The day started with a steep climb towards Sujal Sarovar, a stunningly beautiful lake that offered breathtaking and soothing views. After capturing a few must-have photos and videos, we continued our ascent to Kachini Khal Pass at 5000 meters.
From the top, we were rewarded with the most beautiful and panoramic view of the Chaukhamba peaks, a sight that left us all in awe. We celebrated our achievements with stories and laughter, cherishing the journey and the friendships formed along the way.
However, the worst was yet to come. As we began our descent towards the Kachini Khal campsite, visibility dropped to almost 20% due to dense cloud formation.
Soon after we crossed the pass, the rain began, making the already challenging boulder sections even more treacherous. Anshu, who was moving at a slower pace due to her previous AMS symptoms, was accompanied by Mamaji. Since Mamaji was not entirely familiar with this route, Ankit had to stop frequently to guide them, ensuring they did not get lost in the mountains.
The rain drenched us completely, adding to our discomfort. My primary concern was having dry clothes and shoes for the next day’s descent to Madhyamaheshwar, as my other pair had not dried out from the first three days of the trek. Despite the struggle, we eventually managed to reach the campsite. Exhausted, I did nothing but rest, praying for better weather the next morning to make our further descent more bearable.
DAY 11: Kachini Khal to Madhyamaheshwar
The trek to Madhyamaheshwar, at an altitude of 3800 meters, was filled with varied landscapes and breathtaking scenery, making it the most memorable and enjoyable day of the entire trek. We started with a steep descent from the campsite, crossing the most beautiful meadows. Due to a red alert announcement for the next few days in the Chamoli district, we set off early to avoid the anticipated heavy rain and to reach the temple on time.
I found myself ahead of many of my trek mates and reached the Madhyamaheshwar temple first.
After completing my darshan at the serene shrine, I waited for the others to join me. The group eventually divided into two, as some of our Bengali friends wanted to continue further down. However, I made it clear to Ankit that I preferred to stay at Madhyamaheshwar. I needed to wash up and dry my clothes, which were still drenched from the previous days. Additionally, I was eager to witness the Sandhya Aarti at the temple, knowing it would be a unique and special experience.
Along with Anshu, Ankit, his uncle, Mamaji, and a few porters, we decided to stay at the temple. The day was well spent, with Anshu and Mamaji preparing a delicious snack of jhaal muri, followed by the best tea of the trek and Aloo pyaaz ghee parathas. It was a true treat, and the camaraderie made the day even more special.
Late at night, heavy rain began, creating some apprehension about the next day’s descent. Despite the weather, the day at Madhyamaheshwar was a highlight of the trek, filled with beautiful moments, great food, and unforgettable experiences.
DAY 12: Madhyamaheshwar to Ransi Village
The next day, we were scheduled to start our descent at 5:00 am, but due to persistent bad weather, it was delayed by almost two hours. By 6:30 am, there was still no sign of relief from the rain, but we decided not to wait any longer and finally began our descent to Ransi at 7:00 am.
Ankit’s uncle, who accompanied me for about 8 km, and I were making great time, quickly navigating the trail. Within two hours, we caught up with the remaining group who had stayed 5 km down from Madhyamaheshwar.
From there, I continued the trek on my own, as Ankit’s uncle joined his cousin (Ankit’s father) and the Bengali group. After about two kilometers, I met some local ladies carrying hay on their backs and decided to follow them, assuming they would take a shorter route. Without noticing the no-entry board warning about the landslide condition ahead, I continued with them.
After some time, it became clear that the path was impassable. Construction workers stopped the local women, scolding them in the local language for taking the restricted route. By then, I was too tired and drenched in sweat from the descent to consider turning back. Determined to continue, I proceeded on the hazardous route, which required climbing huge boulders and navigating loose sand, made even more dangerous by the continuous downpour.
As I climbed, I kept thinking about the potential danger I was in and how help would be unlikely due to my decision to ignore the warnings. Despite the difficulties, I reached the top safely, although I couldn’t help but worry about my trek mates who might also take this route though besides me nobody took this stupid decision. This last adventure of the trek was a nerve-wracking but memorable experience, adding a final dramatic chapter to my journey.
After our challenging descent to Ransi, we had to embark on a long journey back to Joshimath. The drive, which should have taken about 4-5 hours, was significantly delayed due to landslides and poor road conditions. The roads were treacherous, winding through the rugged terrain, and the rain had made the journey even more difficult.
Despite the rough conditions, we managed to navigate our way through and finally reached our hotel in Joshimath around 9:00 pm. By then, I was completely exhausted. The trek, combined with the arduous drive, had left me drained. All I could think about was a hot shower and a hearty meal to end the day on a positive note.
The moment I arrived at the hotel, I eagerly freshened up, relishing the hot water that soothed my tired muscles. Afterward, a well-deserved meal awaited me, which was a perfect culmination to a demanding but rewarding day. As I settled into bed, I reflected on the journey, grateful for the experiences and the camaraderie shared with fellow trekkers.
DAY13: Joshimath to Rishikesh
The drive from Joshimath to Rishikesh was longer due to road construction and weather conditions. Looking back, I realize that bringing my car to Joshimath was a decision that added unexpected complications to our journey. My intention was to leave the car behind to simplify our trek and to explore Auli afterward and meeting my old folks from the town. I had anticipated that this would make our travel more convenient, especially since we planned to leave behind non-essential items for the trek.
However, the reality proved quite different. The drive from Ransi to Joshimath, and then from Joshimath to Rishikesh, turned out to be far more challenging than anticipated. The roads were in poor condition, exacerbated by the weather, which turned the journey into a grueling adventure in itself.
In hindsight, it would have been wiser to drive straight from Ransi to Rudraprayag instead of making the detour to Joshimath. This alternative route would have saved us a significant amount of time and spared us the exhausting drive. The additional hours spent navigating the rough terrain and dealing with the adverse conditions only added to the overall strain of the trip.
Ultimately, the decision to bring the car to Joshimath, while intended to be convenient, ended up complicating our return journey. It’s a lesson learned that sometimes, the simplest solutions can lead to unexpected challenges., though the journey was filled with laughter and shared memories with Anshu.
Despite being super tired after 12 hrs of nonstop hill driving me and Anshu celebrated our successful trek at the restaurant in Rishikesh. We spent the night enjoying the tranquility of the town and reflecting on our trek.
DAY 14: Last day from Rishikesh to Delhi
Our adventure concluded with a drive back to Delhi. The Panpatia Col trek had been a remarkable journey of endurance, friendship, and the beauty of the Himalayas. Anshu’s resilience, Ankit’s leadership, Mamaji’s dual role, and the support of the entire team made this trek an unforgettable experience.
The Panpatia Col trek was not just a physical journey; it was a testament to the strength of human spirit, the bonds of friendship, and the breathtaking beauty of nature.
I drove back from Rishikesh to Delhi, reflecting on the incredible journey we had undertaken. The challenges of the drive were a fitting end to the trek, adding to the sense of achievement and adventure.
The Team
Anshu partner in crime
A special mention goes to my friend Anshu, who was not just my tent mate but a true companion throughout the trek. We had first met in Kashmir, sharing a roof during previous treks, and her presence on this journey was a great comfort. Despite being hit by Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) on the fifth day, Anshu’s willpower and determination were truly inspiring. Her recovery and completion of the trek, despite the challenges, were a testament to her strength and resilience.
Ankit Our trek lead
He was an incredible support throughout the journey. His expertise in navigating difficult terrains like moraines, boulders, and snowline areas was invaluable. Ankit's calm demeanour and unwavering support made the toughest days more manageable and ensured we stayed on course.
Mamaji whom we called 'Guthi (a famous comic character)' guide cum chef of the trek
Mamaji, our chef cum guide, was the heart of the trek. His ability to lighten the mood every day, whether during the trek or post-trek, was remarkable. Even on the toughest days, when it was pouring rain or extremely cold, Mamaji ensured we had hot meals on time, lifting our spirits and keeping us fueled for the journey.
The Bengali Teammates
Our fellow trekkers from Bengal were supportive and friendly, adding to the camaraderie of the group. Their enthusiasm and teamwork made the trek more enjoyable and fostered a sense of unity among us.
The Support Staff
Last but not least, a heartfelt thank you to the entire staff of porters and guides. They were the true lifeline of the trek, carrying heavy loads, setting up camps, and ensuring our safety at every step. Their hard work and dedication were the backbone of our successful trek.
ConclusionThe Panpatia Col trek during the monsoon season is an adventure of a lifetime. The challenging terrain, unpredictable weather, and stunning landscapes make it a journey to remember. Despite the difficulties, the sense of achievement and the beauty of the Himalayas make every step worthwhile. Whether you’re an experienced trekker or seeking a unique adventure this trek promises an experience you’ll cherish forever.
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