This one destination was jinxed in my to do travel list till last week, I must have planned minimum 10 times in past 7 years but unfortunately for some reason always ended up cancelling it in last moment.… Finally I managed to tick this ‘Holyland’ in my list that to on an occasion like Holi( a festival of colors in India) festival. Though Holi is primarily a north Indian festival, But Hampi is one of the few places that celebrates the festival with same enthusiasm like elsewhere in North India. The old ruined capital of the Vijayanagara Dynasty probably throws the fanciest Holi party in south India.
So to experience this grandeur piece of art along with Holi celebration I booked myself for PTU (@Plan The Unplanned) Photography tour.
I wasn’t really sure to go in a group initially, but than a friend from office also showed interest of joining me so booked myself for this trip. Honestly to my surprise this group tour turned out to be one hell of a ride, we had one happy bunch on this joyride😊
We left Bangalore just a day before Holi day around 8:30pm, we knew being a Holi weekend roads going to be packed with traffic, so to avoid all that we planned to leave the city little early to reach on time to celebrate the Holi madness.
Day 1-
Hampi holi celebration is world famous and I wanted to witness this madness.The bus journey from Bangalore to Hospet took around 7-8 hours - believe me not the real comfortable ride though..but beggars cant be choosers☹.
We would have finished our ride within 6 hours tops if the bus wouldn’t have given all the trouble midnight..so wasted 2-3 hours extra on the road but finally managed to reach Hospet around 7:30am, this is the nearest town to reach Hampi, from there it took us an hour to reach the campsite. After we dressed up in our throw away clothes to get all dirty we started walking towards the street where the entire bandwagon was ready to hit the streets of Hampi to play Holi.
Finally we reached the other side of the river where everybody were going ‘mental’ in Holi celebration, we were awestruck by seeing the number of people celebrating this festival. People dancing on the street and covering each other with powdered and liquid paints..
Most of them were foreigners and some travelled from rest of India, all were singing and dancing on the drums and putting colors on each other. Everyone seemed to be high on celebration… the view of that street is something which I’m sure you guys have seen it enough in our Bollywood Movies since years. But being there in the actual celebration is an altogether different experience...believe me if you guys get a chance to visit Hampi during Holi than be part of this madness.
Though for people who are unaware of this festival - Holi is primarily a North Indian festival, so the largest North Indian cities such as Delhi and Jaipur can be a crazier than this (but a little overwhelming). In South India this isn’t a big festival but Hampi is a notable exception in the state of Karnataka.
Frankly Holi is not for people who hate to get dirty or pass judgement on how people go mental on this day!!…it’s for people who are young at heart...also for those who forget which cast/creed/religion they belong to..this festival purely unites everyone from all age groups..:-) beat adults or children whom you see on streets to play the drums, dance and throw bright coloured paint at each other.
You can buy paints all over for just a few pennies on the streets of Hampi during the festival, and use them either dry or mixed with water (young ones love to make paint cannons or fill colored balloons out of water bottles to add more madness…do watch out for them😊).
In some cities where there’s a river or lake, people get totally covered and then head en masse for the water to rinse it all off at the end of the party. In Hampi, people were doing exact same thing, after this bandwagon took the complete round of the town, they all landed near the river Tungbhadra (a river cutting through the town) to soak their colored bodies in water!
Things to remember while playing Holi in Hampi?
As with any huge gathering of people, keep your wits with you. It’s not uncommon for people to drink heavily or take too much bhaang (a paste made from cannabis plants), and become disorderly during the celebrations.
If you’re a woman travelling alone, be aware that there have been reports of sexual harassment from other parts of India. I would definitely recommend Hampi as a safe - smaller town to celebrate Holi. The locals and foreigners coming here to just enjoy the madness, they generally mind their own business, you find them extremely friendly and the kids are just too adorable, always wanting to climb onto your shoulders to tower over the crowds.
Post holi celebration we all rested for few hours and planned to meet again to go to the sunset point..it was a small 10-15 minute long hike... a little scrambling was called for, but it offered exactly what we all were looking for; the temple gateway rising up and prominent in the scene, the hills behind, and hopefully the actual sunset in the frame as well. We spent good one hour at that spot and left just before it was getting dark..luckily it was a full moon night the same day so the view from both sides of the mountains (sunset on one side and full moon on the other) was just mesmerizing.
Once we were done with this hike, we all planned to go to the resort where me and my friend were putting up for that night to have some lavish dinner..it was a laugh riot thanks to ‘Chopra’ & ‘Betaal’ and there endless stories...this mad day had finally come to an end😊 what an eventful day it was...
Day 2 –
Our next day was also full of action, we decided to start very early (literally we all were up at 4 am to leave sharp at 5:30am) from our resort to see the sunrise… for that we had to reach Anjenaya Mata & Lord hanuman temple early morning.
This place finds reference in the KISHKINDA of the epic RAMAYANA, Approximately 550 plus concrete steps lead to the top of the hill from where one gets a full view of HAMPI AREA. There is a rest spot for travellers in between the climb from where the sight of the ruins below and the mountains surrounding looks breathtakingly. The whole view of Hampi from the top of the temple will be one of the most beautiful sights any traveller would see.
Later part of the day we spent exploring some of the most interesting Hampi temples.
What should I say about that? If you are looking forward to go somewhere extremely peaceful and beautiful on a tight budget, Hampi is one of the best choices in our country. Once the proud capital of the Vijayanagara Empire, Hampi is a city of ruins holding within it the last remnants of the great empire.
It is charismatic even in its ruined state…most searched UNESCO heritage site in recent times. Every year attracts thousands travelers like me from all over the world to visit this mysterious land of temples.
Vast stretches of boulder-strewn hills make the backdrop of Hampi unique. Dotted around the hills and valleys with 500 plus monuments. Among them are beautiful temples, basements of palaces, remains of aquatic structures, ancient market streets, royal pavilions, bastions, royal platforms, treasury buildings.., the list is practically endless. This is indeed a backpackers paradise, the same way the pilgrims delight.
In various stages of preservation, The remains leave no doubt about the wealth and power of the Vijayanagara Empire. Only a powerful empire could have had the resources to create what today looks like an extensive open art gallery. Though neglected for many centuries, it is easy to understand the past grandeur of this city as one walks around the area.
Among what remains today, religious structures predominate over secular ones. With a large number of magnificently carved temples dedicated to numerous deities scattered all over, it is the ultimate religious zone for the practicing Hindu. If there be Nirvana, it should be obtained here. The carvings seem so real that one can’t touch and feel the carved idols or the beautiful pillars without experiencing a sense of euphoria. There must be very few such beautiful places where the almighty might actually want to reside😊.
To describe about the different places in Hampi is pointless. With all its mystery, Hampi is for the explorer. There are infinite small routes leading off to different ruins and monuments and places of natural beauty all around, you can often get confused where to go. If you have the spirit of adventure combined with the sense of appreciation for nature and craftsmanship, this is one of those places you must visit.
After the day long adventure we reached to the spot behind Virupaksha temple to click some beautiful sunset view shots..and from there we ended our day @mangotree café to chill. There we spent good two hours chatting up on all the things did in last two days..some fun moments😊
Quick snapshot about the place -
Hampi is spread over 36 kms they say. Most of the temples are in ruins, being attacked by the Bahamani Sultans. Whatever remains gives a clear glimpse into its erstwhile grandeur.
One thing to keep in mind is that the town of Hampi is divided in two parts by a river.
North of river Tungabhadra. (spots: Hanuman Temple, Anegundi, Eateries and Hippie Cafes etc)
Hampi side of the river - south of the river (spots: Hampi town, Main Market, Virupksha temple, etc).
For all the adventure lovers their are list of activities which you guys can explore other than the temple walks:
Bouldering - Hampi is known to have the best bouldering sites so incase you are seeking for real experience plan your trip accordingly.
Hiking - Their are many day hike spots in and around this area. I have mentioned few here. but if you are interested do explore this place in length.
My Review - I would suggest people like me to stay on the North side…its more happening for young crowd. There are some well known cafes and shacks to crash.
· There are no bridges to connect the sides, you have to take a ferry to switch between the river banks. So selecting which side of the bank you wish to stay is a very important decision to make before you go...mostly during peak times Hippie side is always pre-booked because of being in heavy demand😊
· In Virupaksa Temple, one can see an engineering marvel of projecting pictures through sunlight.
· Royal Elephant Stables are the iconic representation of Hampi; their architecture is fantastic.
· Mahanavami Dibba is a must watch; an elaborate complex for sports and festivities.
· The legendary market street where they sell stones and metal carved figures, signature stone chariot/ Ganesha figures which one can take home as part of souvenir.
· The Vithala temple is rightly called supreme flowering of Vijanagara art. The carved of pillars and magnificent stone chariot perfectly proportioned with a great technology to superb that the stone wheels actually rotate. Foreigner comes here to cherish their eyes. I feel so great to experience that India is so culturally enriched.
· Best Sunrise and Sunset views from Hill-sides and Riverbanks.
· Moonlight Coracle-boat(round boat) ride.
· Trekking to Waterfalls and River Beaches.
· Sketching and Doodling Monuments and natural landscapes.
· Bonfire gatherings with music, jamming and fun.
· Bicycle rides and Moped rides through fields, villages and hills.
· Storytelling by the Bonfire
· Exploring Neolithic Cave Paintings.
How To Reach HAMPI
· Hampi Is well Connected by road, Rail And Air.
· Bangalore to Hampi is Approx 350 Km
· Hyderabad To Hampi Is Approx 370 Km
· Bellary To Hampi Is Approx 65 Km
· Hospet To Hampi Is Approx 12 Km
Things to Remember
· Weather in Hampi is generally hot. Carry cotton or airy clothes preferable for a weather like that. You can carry Sunscreen/Umbrella/Hat to save yourself from harsh sun during the daytime. Nights are pleasant so depend upon your body temperature carry clothes accordingly.
· Best months – Nov-March because nights are cool in these months..though people travel during monsoon(post June till Sep) also. So this option I leave it upto your own preference.
· Wearing comfortable footwear and coming prepared to walk long and hard is important psychological preparation. Flipflops/good walking shoes are must for this place. If you are into trekking please do carry good pair of walking shoes as there are enough boulders on the long stretches..
· There are no toilets at most sites. so whenever you guys spot a good public convenience do make use of it.
· For the love of everything that is Holi is known for, COVER YOUR HAIR, especially if you’re blonde. Blonde hair gets dyed in so many different colours, and stays FOREVER.. later you might have to spend the rest of the year trying to correct it…so prepare yourself in advance by putting enough oil in your hair and body which is exposed. Also, protect your nails by covering them by applying nail polish before the Holi day. Don’t say I didn’t warn you:-)
· Choose bright colors or be bold and wear white, so you can be colored by others! Remember to always dress appropriately, and avoid showing too much skin to avoid unwanted attention from frisky locals.
· Wear old clothes or clothes you don’t mind getting ruined around Holi. Nothing will remove the Holi stains so you’ll definitely need to bin them afterwards.
· Also, this is a simple advice, buy some cheap see-through glasses to play Holi, this will help you to avoid getting the paints in your eyes. There are some nasty chemicals in some of the cheaper paints and not only could it make your eyes very sore, but you might end up with green or purple teeth… Not a good look😊 but I guess that you can’t avoid during festival time😊. One more suggestion buy some herbal colors, these days they are available online so atleast you are sure what colors you will be putting to people around you.
· For all of you who are looking forward to shop here, make sure that you have a good amount of cash in hand. The village is only starting to get used to cashless transactions, also there are very few ATM machines in town. Cash in hand is preferable. The place is very safe, as the village is full of friendly locals and curious foreigners…so no need to worry a lot about cash in hand.
· To travel around the place, you have enough options between an auto rickshaw or a rent a cycle or moped as no outside vehicles are allowed inside the village. And trust me, a cycle/moped is the way to be here. Amazingly good roads with lots of beauty around you, a cycle/moped is easily available and a cheap and optimal option.
PACKING LIST
Here are the essentials you’ll need for a successful Holi:
· Old clothes or white T-Shirt and shorts
· Some clear nail polish
· Some good quality hair oil
· Some big sunglasses to keep the paint out of your eyes
· Mosquito repellent for those who are planning to campout
· Vaseline for rubbing on your hands and a little up your nose to catch the dry paint particles
· A Go Pro Hero 4 (with waterproof casing) for capturing it all
· A good quality body scrub for the clean-up efforts
WHO IS IT FOR : This place is for those who are physically fit (to climb hills, walk for long distances etc.).and open to new possibilities and experiences. There is no mobile signal in Hampi for most parts, so be prepared to be cut off. Be prepared to be away from the comforts and luxuries of the city life. Needless to say, this place is for those who are willing to get out of their comfort zones while on the tour.
FOOD Enough cafes and local shops around the site with local/specialty Food options.
ACCOMMODATION Accommodation in Hampi during holi is hard to find(especially for large groups) and very expensive so incase you want to be their during that time, do prebook your places in advance. Most of the people like us they come and stay in homestay/shacks towards the Hippie side, that’s the place to stay. Otherwise there are resorts/hotels too available in Hampi which are also not very far off from happening café’s. Please check Airbnb Booking.com or agoda for options to stay.
If you are the adventure enthusiast carry your camping stuff along, you can park yourself anywhere near the riverside.
My kind words for the group I travelled with –
I don’t think I can close my note without mentioning few names...my Hampi trip would have been incomplete without you mad people😊
Thanks @PTU(@Plantheunplanned) and my fellow travelers [Mafriends - Saika Rc Mukherjee, Sushi aka Japaani chokri(Sumi Nishizato), Aabha Geed (bewadi:-)), @Chopra urf Gupta urf patiyaala or what we taught Sumi ‘ g$$nd@’, Vikram Naresh urf Betaal, @Simmi, aka NYC investor @Russel & Last not the least @Aniruddha tammeshwar aka most literate boy in this gang who have too many choices in colleges abroad😊] who joined me on this tour…special thanks to Binoy George/ Prakruthi Kumar (Plan The Unplanned team)for putting up with this mad bunch 📷😊 we really had good time and I don’t think this would have been possible without you two.
I would especially like to thank @Jatin munvar(Plan The Unplanned team) for accommodating my friend & I in a comfortable resort at such a short notice. Generally I have seen other group leads they take offence or act indifferent to people if they have different requirements than the rest of the group...but you guys were thorough professionals...not even once we saw frown on anybody’s face...in fact you took care of the minutest of things.
Binu(aka @Binoy)/@Prakruthi you were really patient with all of us and hats off to you for the energy you guys have put in to really understand people from different cultures and background and meet with their specific needs… Generally when people go to Hampi they end up doing Temple visits or basic boat ride only, but unlike them we had two full packed days of adventure, starting from Holi celebration, to jungle walk, Sunset view trek, dinner @kishkinda resort (one hell of a party there) or day long walk to different temples/ sunrise view or venturing to some nice local cafes...this trip comprised of everything which one would look forward for a weekend getaway.
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